Paddling the Allagash Wilderness Waterway: A Father-Son Paddling Trek

By Stephen L. Priest

Steve wrote this article in July 2009 following his trip and posted it on his blog Outdoor Enthusiast. Big thanks to Steve for allowing us to repurpose his story as we promote membership in the Northern Forest Canoe Trail with a chance to win your own guided trip on the Allagash. 

Ten of us just returned from paddling the Allagash Wilderness Waterway (AWW) in northern Maine. The ninety-eight mile AWW is composed of streams, rivers, and lakes, and shines as the brightest among the jewels of Maine’s wilderness state parks and historic sites.

This was a father-son trip with four dads and five sons. Linwood “Loon” Parsons (www.loonsnest.biz) was our guide. Loon’s knowledge of the history and special sites around the Allagash meant many side trips and unique Allagash lore.

We entered the AWW at Indian Pond Stream on Saturday July 11th and exited Saturday July 18th at Allagash Village where the Allagash River and the St. John River meet.

Wildlife
Wildlife was plentiful and we stopped counting Moose at twenty-five, and eagles at ten pair. Another thrill was having a loon land within feet of our canoe as we paddled. The loon landing took a long time before it settled on the water – it was like a big seaplane without skis coming in low with its proud chest up and no legs showing. This long landing time and style was magnificent to see, as the loon got lower and lower to the water. Finally, the loon gently became one with the water.

A special treat for me was hearing the ”snort” sounds of a moose, and the shriek of the eagle. One evening a cow moose and her calf spent nearly an hour across the river from our camp, and we heard her many snort calls to her calf. Another time two eagles perched in trees across from camp and made frequent eagle screams.

Rapids
This was my son Tim’s and my third trip into the AWW in six years, and the water level was the highest and fastest we have seen. My earlier trips required us frequently to get out of the canoe due to low water. This time we fought headwinds on Eagle and Long Lakes. Chase Rapids are five miles of Class 2 and Class 1 rapids with many thrills. We did short stretches of class 2 rapids over Long Lake Dam and below Allagash Falls.

My biggest thrill was paddling with my son, Tim. We did the first three days with me in the stern, including Chase Rapids. On day four, we switched ends of the canoe for the remainder of the trek. Tim’s ability to read fast moving water, along with his paddling strength, resulted in an adventurous, fun, and safe trip though the rapids. Our last day, the eighth, poured rain, but since we were on our way out, rain was no issue.

Gourmet Meals

Our meals were simply delicious, well planned, and cooked by “The Loon”. Steaks and potatoes cooked over our open fire pit are just a sample of our eight days of gourmet meals.

Allagash History and Our Itinerary
Without a doubt, the Allagash Wilderness Waterway rates as one of the grandest wilderness areas east of the Mississippi. Its mystique draws canoeists from all over America and the world. First roamed by native Abnaki Indians in search of food and furs, then in the 1800s by lumbermen in search of virgin timber for logs and pulpwood, it is today visited by the adventurist paddler seeking a deep wilderness experience.

The Allagash Wilderness Waterway is rich in historical points of interest from those by-gone eras. It abounds in wildlife of every description, from the majestic Moose to the ubiquitous White-throated Sparrow. Extending some 98 miles end-to-end, the Waterway offers the canoer both lake and river paddling environments.

Our trip began at Indian Pond Stream, flowed into Eagle Lake, and then proceeded northward for eight days ending at Allagash Village on the Canadian border. “Pongokwahemook”, an Indian name meaning “woodpecker place” and today called Eagle Lake, is a most interesting spot on the Allagash. We pitched out tents at Thoreau campsite on Pillsbury Island, the northernmost point reached by Henry David Thoreau in his expedition of 1853. It is from this base encampment that we launched our exploration of the “Tramway” that connects Eagle Lake with Chamberlain Lake and of the old locomotives that ran between Eagle and Umbazooksus lakes in the early 1900s lumbering era. A strange sight indeed to see these 90 and 100-ton locomotives sitting alone in this vast wilderness.

By now, everyone’s paddling skills have became finely tuned and in two days or so, we will be running the canoes down famous Chase Rapids, a beautiful and exciting run of nearly 5 miles ending at Umsaskis Lake. As the river enters Umsaskis Lake it meanders through an attractive marsh where we see moose feeding on the plant life. Canada geese often stop over here also on their great migrations up and down the Atlantic flyway.

We next cross Round Pond, the last pond on the waterway and spend the next few days being carried along by the current through easy rapids as the Allagash River descends toward the Saint John. Trout fishing at the mouths of the many brooks and streams offer Eric and Garrett enjoyment to wet a fly and we enjoy Garrett’s fresh 14” brook trout over our open campfire.

We portage the most awesome spectacle on the river: 40-foot high Allagash Falls, a thundering, boiling cauldron of power and beauty.

Never say, “I wish I had …”
Fourteen river miles below Allagash Falls through Class 1 rapids, the Allagash River delivers us back into civilization and our wilderness river adventure becomes a treasured memory.

A special notation on this trip. We had planned this trek two years ago, but one of the Dads was diagnosed with throat cancer. We had made all the arrangements, and two weeks before the trek, we had to cancel on the advice of his doctor to begin aggressive treatment. Two years later, cancer free, he and his two sons, made his Allagash Wilderness Waterway dream come true.

We now never have to say, “I wish I had paddled the Allagash Wilderness Waterway”.

For more information go to Allagash Wilderness Waterway.

Steve Priest is a member of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail and author of Outdoor Play: Fun 4 4 Seasons. His blog Outdoor Enthusiast and website outdoorsteve.com share his many recreational experiences as well as his upcoming speaking engagements.

From the Northern Forest Canoe Trail to the Tetons

By Allison Waring

Today as I sit in Jackson, Wyoming watching the spring sun slowly melting away winter’s snow, I reflect upon how I got here. I’m sure part of the reason is related to my inability to plant my feet in any one location for more than six months at a time, but I know a large part of how I got to where I am today is in direct response to all of my past experiences.

While attending school at SUNY Plattsburgh my knowledge of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail (NFCT) was based solely on the information kiosk located at the mouth of the Saranac River. That all changed after receiving an email in the spring of 2010 advertising NFCT’s summer internships.

Allison spent 9 weeks during the summer of 2010 working on NFCT’s Intern Crew.

The summer of 2010 was my first introduction into this great organization. As a member of the NFCT’s stewardship crew I traveled throughout the Northeast hosting waterway work trips, maintaining campsites, and improving portages. It was a true adventure, living out of an overfilled pick-up truck, going weeks on end without showering, and working in all types of weather. For me it was a glorious experience. Not many people can say they know how to build rock steps, lumber staircases and bog bridges. This internship gave me those skills and opened my eyes to what an amazing organization the NFCT is.

Summer 2011, Allison was a Youth Program intern teaching kids paddling, ecology and leadership skills.

The following summer after completing my bachelor’s degree I returned to the NFCT, only this time in the role of a youth program intern. Once again I got to travel throughout the Northeast, only this time I was leading 5-day canoe trips for 10–14 year olds for the Northern Forest Explorers program. That summer I partnered with 4 different local outfitters and co-led 7 paddling trips. The kids I worked with were inspiring, coming from all different backgrounds, many from disadvantaged homes. While working with kids can be inherently stressful in many ways (and, sure, I had my moments!) this experience only reaffirmed my desires to pursue a career in education.

The following fall, I took everything I had learned from my two summers with the NFCT and went full force into pursuing a career working with children in the out-of-doors. Since then I’ve spent two years working in the field of experiential outdoor education teaching at centers in New York, Massachusetts, and now in Wyoming. I even spent a summer working as a guide with Great Glen Trails, a partner organization in New Hampshire that leads Northern Forest Explorer trips in that state.

From liquid H2O to the frozen stuff, Allison continues to teach youth about the outdoors at the Teton Science Schools.

Today, I’m an AmeriCorps volunteer working with the Teton Science Schools in Jackson, Wyoming. I have the pleasure of teaching students that come from all over the country to learn science in the amazing environment that is the Tetons. It’s an organization that I’m proud to be a part of for their role in helping to get students of all ages excited about learning and for their ability to build connections between students and their natural world. As time continues to march on I plan on staying here in Jackson for the summer working with the school’s summer programs.

A big thank you goes out to the Northern Forest Canoe Trail and their tireless staff who work hard every year to not only ensure great paddling experiences for thousands of people of all ages, but who also provide such wonderful hands-on learning experiences for many young adults through their internship programs.

Without these programs I’m not sure I would be where I am today.

2013 NH-ME Trail Maintainer Jamboree

We could not have asked for better weather for this year’s New Hampshire-Maine Trail Maintainer Jamboree. The ice on the Rangeley Lakes was officially deemed “out” just two days before our arrival, mostly due to the string of beautiful spring weather that went right into the Saturday and Sunday of our Jamboree.

After completing some minor trail improvements to the Rangeley River access. Left to Right: Pam Mitchell, Sam Brakeley, John Cary, Russ Collett, Bill Schomburg, Chip Curtis, and Margaret Kimball.

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